Let Me Ramble For A Bit

Photos of the Weekly Market

This morning I awoke to the sound of rhythmic pounding of metal on stone. There was a man outside breaking up the large, flat rocks that make up my road with a sledgehammer and metal rod. Word on the street (literally, what people on the street below my window were saying) is that they are trying to make the road accessible to cars. First step is to break up the rocks that have been our road until now. I am not sure what the second step will be, and can’t imagine it will happen quickly because the first step seems like such a huge undertaking for one, very strong man.

It’s in moments like these that I remember that I come from another world. A world where a crew of ten men getting paid twenty-five dollars an hour work on roads using heavy machinery (also a very tough job). A country, where 95% of the population can’t imagine not being able to access their houses by car. What is interesting is that the people in this neighborhood don’t mind that cars can’t reach their houses (and neither do I), especially since they don’t have cars. Their uphill walk will continue to be part of their daily lives even as cars are able to pass by them on the road. Just this morning I ran into a friend on my way into the center of town, her hands were full of heavy groceries and she was starting the steady climb to her house. Her road is in terrible condition and even difficult to maneuver walking. I can’t help but wonder why one road is being made available for cars while another is not even suitable for walking. This seems to be a pattern I’ve witnessed elsewhere- infrastructure as a sign of progress, of a city’s achievement. But the who, what, when, and where of how these projects are selected remains a complete mystery to me, and who they benefit in the long run an even greater mystery. The town has a newly elected mayor, a “nativo” of Lençois, who is eager to demonstrate that he is a man of the people. Perhaps projects such as these are his way of visibly demonstrating his ability to make change. Ironic since he seems to be cutting funding to the health posts; one area where an increase in funding is very needed. But now I am ranting.

This blog entry was intended to be about the small things that keep me engaged and fulfilled on a daily basis in this town: Accordion players at my favorite spot playing Michael Jackson’s “Beat It” along with traditional music from the northeast. Card games with the young men in my Brazilian “family” where I, the only female invited to play, surprise them by never losing (loser of each hand drinks a shot of cachaça). On a rainy day, when the rain suddenly changes from a drizzle to a downpour, running into a small restaurant and the wonderful two hour conversation I end up having with the woman working there. Playing capoeira- part martial art, part dance- and moving my body to the rhythm of the berimbau. Stopping three times in the distance of one block to greet and chat with people, never in any rush to get to the next place. Buying bread freshly baked at my favorite bakery and trying to ignore the delicious donut like guava pastry for sale. Going to the weekly market where the colors, sounds and smells of the fresh produce are a treat for three senses. Feeling at peace, healthy and happy and not being able to explain exactly why.

All that said, while life here is ideal for me I am completely aware that that is not the case for everyone, and that is the most unfortunate thing about this town. Spending time with friends who are “nativos,” listening to the interviews I’ve done, and doing new interviews I know that life is far from perfect for most of the natives of Lençois. I acknowledge that the fact that I come here with enough money to live comfortably, though modestly, allows me an almost stress free existence where I can enjoy the beauty of this town and it’s people. Moreover, because there is an entire population of people in this town from other parts of Brazil who have the same comfortable lifestyle I have, I feel less plagued with guilt. But I am aware that once again I am extremely fortunate and lucky. My only consolation is that the research I am doing does mean something to the women with whom I am working and I am more determined than ever to produce something in Portuguese to be able to share with them.

I apologize that this entry was more random and incoherent than normal, but these are the things on my mind at this moment and thus the things I want to share.