Back in the U.S. of A

I did it. I got on the plane and left Brazil.  After 24 hours of travel I have arrived in Tucson, Arizona.  I am already grateful to my friends in the US- phone conversations and gchats already today have made me excited to see everyone and have made my return easier.  Tomorrow I depart for Portland, Oregan for a wedding of an old friend, then off to Seattle and Yosemite to end my summer with some of the most beautiful places in the US.  It is hard to believe that the semester will begin in two and a half weeks, but perhaps it is better not to dwell on that.  I will keep writing in this blog until the semester starts and then…well we will have to see if I have anything blog worthy to say during the semester.  Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps.  

Saying Goodbye to Brazil...Again

Cachoeira de Sossego

Poco Azul (Sunlight reflecting on the water in the cave makes that color)

Cachaca at Fazendinha with Cica and Maysa

A beach in Salvador

Itana & I at the beach drinking agua de coco

My nine last days in Brazil were full and memorable.  If anything I was reminded that I have a life here, which means that leaving Brazil is not just leaving a place that I enjoy visiting, but it’s leaving that life behind.  Yes, I am quite aware that I have a life waiting for me in Tucson, Arizona: wonderful friends, family a short flight away, and oh yes a PhD program to complete.  But when I think of how I spend my days in Brazil, it is hard to not long for one life over the other:  Early morning capoeira classes filled with laughter (and a little bit of pain); hours spent at the farmer’s market, drinking juice and coffee and chatting with friends long after I’ve purchased my vegetables; almost daily baths in the river and the conversations with people I run into there; hearing music I love everywhere I turn; spending time with old friends and new friends, working on my research and drawing strength from the women with whom I speak; dancing; running; being outside 90% of my hours awake; day hikes to magnificently beautiful places; discovering new things about people and places everyday; feeling completely like myself even without understanding why that happens here; having people rely on me and relying on people in return. 

My last week and a half in Brazil was a celebration of my life here and left me wanting more.  I was able to spend time with my friends, hike to a waterfall I’ve always wanted to visit, dance forro in Lençois and samba beachside in Salvador, and eat in abundance all my favorite Brazilin dishes.  I spent six nights in a row out with different groups of friends sending me off.  Saying goodbye to some people was very difficult.  My closest friend Katia is seven months pregnant and having a difficult pregnancy on top of a very stressful life, or because of the stressful life.  She has grown to depend on me for emotional support and I foresee many skype phone calls to Brazil in my future until this baby is born safe and sound.  Saying goodbye to she and her family I once again had the sensation that I was leaving a little piece of my heart behind with them, just like I leave a little piece when I say goodbye to my family in the United States, just like I left a little piece in Senegal years ago.  When I described this sensation to a Portuguese friend she said this, “Your heart grows every time you take these people into your life and so you have pieces to spare; it will grow again.”  I liked that idea and will carry that imagery with me as I return to the United States.

I created a little prayer for myself my last day at the river and I hope to use it to ground myself when I am in the depths of graduate school madness: May the peace and happiness I feel here [the river] remain with me always.  I wish the same for everyone in my life and like to think that we can be each other’s “rivers” as well.  Getting on the plane will be harder than I’d like it to be, but I will carry Brazil back with me to the states, try to incorporate a little more of my Brazilian life into my American one, and make the most of being a continent closer to my family and friends.

 

Wrapping Up My Research...But Just For Now

I just completed my 19th and final interview of the summer, although the informal conversations and discussions will continue. I feel content with the "data" I have collected and have some definite themes to focus on in my thesis. However, I feel like I am still just skimming the surface. I am certain that I will be returning here to do my disseration research and with it beginning to develop programs with a couple of the community organizations with whom I have been speaking. I feel like I am very settled here and have everything in place to start my dissertation research and work with these organizations....so leaving in one week is really disapointing. I just have to be confidant that the foundation I have created in the last seven weeks and over the last three years will be here to some extent when I return. I also know when to say "when," and I´ve decided to spend my last week here not running around trying to get a few more interviews, but instead visiting with friends, going on some of my favorite hikes that I haven´t had time to do, and reflecting on everything I´ve learned this summer about my research and about myself. Somehow I know that these reflections will bring far more questions than answers. But who needs answers anyway. I have so much to say about my research that I want to share...but I am going to hold off on discussing it here until I have processed it a little more.

O Dia Fora de Tempo (The Day Outside of Time)

Every person has moments in their life that are memorable, sometimes for good reasons sometimes for bad ones. If one is lucky they have several positive memorable moments stored in their brains, waiting to be shared when the right question is asked or a person is willing to listen. In my thirty years of living I have become one of the lucky few with several happy, memorable moments. Now I have another one to add to the memory bank…

In the late 19th century and early 20th when diamond mining was a booming vocation, Barro Branco was a town. Now this village, about 7 kilometers from Lençois and 400 meters above it in altitude, has no more than 20 houses and is enveloped in thick forest. Remnants of stone houses and walls peak through the shrubbery, reminders of the loss that accompanied the collapse of the diamond industry in this area. Some acquaintances of mine who live in Barro Branco decided that it was the perfect place to celebrate the Dia Fora de Tempo (Day Outside of Time). According to the Mayan calendar, the year ended on Friday and but the new year started on Sunday. Thus last Saturday was not located in time, which made it a day worthy of a celebration. Though I don’t follow the Mayan calendar I like the woods and I like a forro party, so I went with a small group of friends to dance, camp and get away from the “city.”

The site of the festivities was an area similar to a town square (if there was a town to have a square). The residents built a small stone stage for the band, set up wooden benches, a fire pit, and a small area for a food and beverage vendor. No electricity in Barro Branco, the area was lit by candles and lanterns taking us back to festas of the past where the light from a fire and candles guided both musicians and dancers through an evening of blissful revelry. The night sky was clear, making the stars and chesire cat grin of a moon completely visible and magnificent.

As people arrived my friends and I snacked on an acarajé (typical snack food of Bahia), shared a cold beer and commented on the fact that a practically deserted village in the middle of the woods was a perfect place to celebrate a day removed from time. When the four-man forro band began playing its “forrosinho” (“little forro”; ie. more traditional forro) it occurred to me that this could quite possibly be the last forro festa under the stars I would be attending for a long time. And so I danced. I danced to fast tempos (one-one, one-one), medium tempos (one-two, one-two), and slow tempos (one-hip sway; two-hip sway). I tried to dance samba when the samba band arrived. I danced more forro when the forro band came back on stage. I danced for five hours straight. When a set of simple fireworks went off above the couples on the dance floor I realized the day outside of time was over and a new year had begun. I couldn’t imagine a better way to start a new year and I especially liked the chance that I was getting a second “new year” in 2009. Past 2:00 am, when the band members continued to play for an audience of weary but content listeners, my dance partner and I were the only ones still dancing, enjoying ourselves and entertaining the spectators.

The simplicity of a party with no electricity, at the end of a dirt road, in the hills of Brazil, where the music, company and beautiful, cool night are the only draws was striking. I found myself looking in from the outside and realized that at that moment I was experiencing the Brazil that people hear so often about, and that tour packages try so hard to construct, but that is becoming increasingly rare in a rapidly modernizing society. I am so thankful for my night of forro under the stars; for the friends I’ve made in Brazil that accompany me to parties and dance with me until 2:30am; for the health that lets me dance; and for the musicians who play, and play and play just because…

I tried twice to post photos to this entry and both times the site crashed....so hopefully my description is enough to satisfy my more visually orientated readers.

The Rio Lencois And I

Enjoying the lower part of the Rio Lencois

Often in my posts I refer to my breaks at the river.  The river I refer to is the Rio Lencois, which descends from the hills surrounding the town and runs through it.  The upper part of the river (about a 45 minutes hike away) is home to the 3 waterfalls and several lovely swimming areas.  I spend more time at the mid and lower section of the river; an area called Serrano.  It is only a 15 minute walk from my house, and I usually run into someone I know to converse with while I am there. The Serrano is popular not only for it's proximity to the town, but also because there are deep holes for jumping, short cascades of water (perfect for hydro-massages), and a nice view of the city.  The truth behind the holes/pools is that they were created when the river was dynamited for diamond mining.  Unfortunately, that takes away a bit from the magic of the place for me, but it doesn't make it any less beautiful, any less restorative, any less one of my favorite places.  When I encounter Brazilian travelers in Lencois they ask  me why I want to live here.  I point them to the river and say, "How many cities are a 15 minute walk to a waterfall?  

The Lencois natives say that one should go to the river as much as possible because it has powerful energy, that the rocks and water have the ability to rejuvenate and heal.  From my experience here what they say is completely true and I can only hope that I can continue carrying that energy with me when I leave here in 2 weeks.

The mid-section of the Rio Lencois; view from the path from town.

Looking down river to the town of Lencois.

One of the deep holes in the river that are perfect for jumping!

My favorite spot in Serrano; mini cascades and more deep holes (hidden) for bathing and jumping.

Let Me Ramble For A Bit

Photos of the Weekly Market

This morning I awoke to the sound of rhythmic pounding of metal on stone. There was a man outside breaking up the large, flat rocks that make up my road with a sledgehammer and metal rod. Word on the street (literally, what people on the street below my window were saying) is that they are trying to make the road accessible to cars. First step is to break up the rocks that have been our road until now. I am not sure what the second step will be, and can’t imagine it will happen quickly because the first step seems like such a huge undertaking for one, very strong man.

It’s in moments like these that I remember that I come from another world. A world where a crew of ten men getting paid twenty-five dollars an hour work on roads using heavy machinery (also a very tough job). A country, where 95% of the population can’t imagine not being able to access their houses by car. What is interesting is that the people in this neighborhood don’t mind that cars can’t reach their houses (and neither do I), especially since they don’t have cars. Their uphill walk will continue to be part of their daily lives even as cars are able to pass by them on the road. Just this morning I ran into a friend on my way into the center of town, her hands were full of heavy groceries and she was starting the steady climb to her house. Her road is in terrible condition and even difficult to maneuver walking. I can’t help but wonder why one road is being made available for cars while another is not even suitable for walking. This seems to be a pattern I’ve witnessed elsewhere- infrastructure as a sign of progress, of a city’s achievement. But the who, what, when, and where of how these projects are selected remains a complete mystery to me, and who they benefit in the long run an even greater mystery. The town has a newly elected mayor, a “nativo” of Lençois, who is eager to demonstrate that he is a man of the people. Perhaps projects such as these are his way of visibly demonstrating his ability to make change. Ironic since he seems to be cutting funding to the health posts; one area where an increase in funding is very needed. But now I am ranting.

This blog entry was intended to be about the small things that keep me engaged and fulfilled on a daily basis in this town: Accordion players at my favorite spot playing Michael Jackson’s “Beat It” along with traditional music from the northeast. Card games with the young men in my Brazilian “family” where I, the only female invited to play, surprise them by never losing (loser of each hand drinks a shot of cachaça). On a rainy day, when the rain suddenly changes from a drizzle to a downpour, running into a small restaurant and the wonderful two hour conversation I end up having with the woman working there. Playing capoeira- part martial art, part dance- and moving my body to the rhythm of the berimbau. Stopping three times in the distance of one block to greet and chat with people, never in any rush to get to the next place. Buying bread freshly baked at my favorite bakery and trying to ignore the delicious donut like guava pastry for sale. Going to the weekly market where the colors, sounds and smells of the fresh produce are a treat for three senses. Feeling at peace, healthy and happy and not being able to explain exactly why.

All that said, while life here is ideal for me I am completely aware that that is not the case for everyone, and that is the most unfortunate thing about this town. Spending time with friends who are “nativos,” listening to the interviews I’ve done, and doing new interviews I know that life is far from perfect for most of the natives of Lençois. I acknowledge that the fact that I come here with enough money to live comfortably, though modestly, allows me an almost stress free existence where I can enjoy the beauty of this town and it’s people. Moreover, because there is an entire population of people in this town from other parts of Brazil who have the same comfortable lifestyle I have, I feel less plagued with guilt. But I am aware that once again I am extremely fortunate and lucky. My only consolation is that the research I am doing does mean something to the women with whom I am working and I am more determined than ever to produce something in Portuguese to be able to share with them.

I apologize that this entry was more random and incoherent than normal, but these are the things on my mind at this moment and thus the things I want to share.

Birthday Bliss

Before I describe the great birthday I had on the fourth, I thought I would respond to some inquiries I’ve received into the nightlife in Lençois. The center of Lençois consists of two main cobblestone streets, each about one block long, which intersect each other and end in two fairly large town squares. Both the streets and squares are lined with restaurants and shops. One street is closed off completely to cars after 6pm, and all the restaurants put out tables and chairs into the street and double as bars. One of my favorite places to hang out is a tiny restaurant on the larger square called Natora. Natora is owned by a friend of mine, has about 3 indoor tables and 6 outdoor ones, serves mud oven pizza, and is frequented by local guitar players. On any given night of the week I know that I can go there and run into at least a small group of people with whom I can spend the evening listening to guitar and conversing on subjects ranging from Michael Jackson’s death, Brazilian politics and the virility of Bahian men. I suppose in many ways the restaurants in Lençois mirror cafes in Europe, where ordering food is never required and sitting there for at least 3 hours is the norm.
My other favorite evening spot is also a restaurant but is much more known for serving sixty varieties of homemade cachaça (alcohol made from sugar cane but that tastes nothing like rum). Fazendinha is run by a family that makes cachaça on their farm and sells it to thirsty Lençois residents and tourists. My particular favorites are banana cachaça and chocolate cachaça. While the residents and tourists drink at Fazendinha, the Lençois “nativos” drink at the slightly less expensive, bare bones “barsinhos” (little bars). These closet size establishments consist of only a counter behind which the bar tender serves cold beer and plain cachaça. The clientele hang out on the street outside the bar watching as people make “volta”s (literally “turns”, figuratively “little tours”) of the two streets and squares, walking up and down the street to see and be seen.
On a Friday or Saturday night it is very easy to run into over half the people you know in town and when the bars close more or less at 1am there’s only one place to go- the town’s one night club Inferninho (Little Hell). In a town where the social division between Fazendinha and the “barsinhos” is representative of much more important dynamics, I enjoy going to Inferninho which is one of the only places where both worlds seem to converge. Inferninho is about 500 square feet, dimly lit and always hot. The DJ has an affection for bad house music, reggae and forro. On the evening of my birthday for example I danced to Prodigy, a house remix of a Beyonce song, Bob Marley and thankfully some forro. If there was another option I doubt anyone would choose to go to Inferninho, but as it is the only option Inferninho is usually full. So aside from the occasional privately sponsored party or town event that is the nightlife of Lençois, perhaps extremely lacking in options but not in enjoyment.
Having your birthday on the July 4th (Impendence Day in the US) is quite probably the best holiday birthday anyone could wish for. Almost everyone has the day off, is in a festive mood and is ready to celebrate. Plus, celebrating usually consists of a full day and evening outdoors with family and friends- what more could someone want for their birthday? Rather unfortunately, I have spent seven of the last eleven birthdays outside of the US, and though I am not complaining it is never really quite the same. This year however, I really did have a wonderful birthday here in Brazil. I was lucky enough to have my birthday fall on a Saturday so I decided for the low stress option of not planning a party and just counting on running into people at my favorite places. Friday night I skype-telephoned my parents and some other family and friends as a birthday treat for myself. Then I decided to commemorate the last hour of my 20s at Fazendinha. As expected I ran into a group of people who celebrated the start of my birthday with me and I ended up dancing at Inferninho until 3am. Saturday, my actual birthday, I slept in, made breakfast with my housemates and then spent the afternoon at the river with some friends. At the river I was struck by the fact that this is my reality, that for over ten years I’ve lived a live full of adventures and beauty, and that I am truly a lucky person. After the river I visited with my friend Katia and was surprised with a birthday cake made by my friend Cecilia’s little sister and mother. Then we went out to dinner to the restaurant in town that I save for special occasions and dined on absolutely delicious sweet potato gnocchi in a pesto sauce. I also treated myself to a dessert of homemade cardamom ice cream with a chocolate brownie. I then met up with the rest of my friends at Fazendinha where the entire bar sang me Happy Birthday. I find it pretty remarkable that I have been in town less than a month and yet people were so sweet about acknowledging my birthday. It seemed that almost everyone I know at least passed by the bar to wish me a happy birthday and the best for the future. I suppose that is yet another thing that makes Lençois so special. After closing Fazendinha down a smaller group of us moved the party to Inferninho where I stayed out dancing until 4am. There were no fireworks, grilled delights, pool parties or salsa dancing, but I felt quite content at the end of my birthday and am very ready for another remarkable decade.